Say “Bonjour” to Honfleur!

Say “Hello” to the picturesque little town of Honfleur on the Seine estuary on France’s Normandy coast and we can practically guarantee you’ll fall for its French charms. There’s good reason why this small town of 8,000 people has become one of the most popular destinations in Normandy and why it attracts so many people both from France and from outside the country: the town’s historic half-timbered houses, photogenic harbour, cozy inns and seafood restaurants are just a few. And when you add in a few of these things to do in Honfleur, you have all the elements for a perfect grownup getaway…

Artistic Things to do in Honfleur:

Honfleur is known not just for its beautiful location on the coast and the town’s historic streetscapes, but also for the ever-changing light here on this part of the Normandy coast. So it’s no surprise that this place became very popular with the French Impressionists, including Claude Monet and his mentor, Eugène Boudin, who was born here. Known as a City of Artists, Honfleur served as a muse for the Impressionism movement, thanks in part to one woman who hosted aspiring artists at her inn at San Siméon. That woman was known as Mère Toutain.

Mère Toutain and her husband had run an inn at San Siméon for years, and eventually took over operation of the farm here as well. After her husband died, the widow Toutain continued to run the business, and it was around this time that local artist Eugène Boudin decided to rent a room here in order to enjoy the peaceful surroundings. Having discovered just how inspiring the location was, he began to invite fellow artists including Claude Monet, Johan Jongkind, and Eugène Isabey to experience the farm for themselves.

Before long, San Siméon became a crucible for a new movement in art: Impressionism, and Mère Toutain acted as its hostess, often offering hospitality in exchange for canvases by her guests – who had plenty of talent but little money.

Eventually the farm was sold by the owners, and Mère Toutain had to leave, but the inspiration, conversation and innovation that had been nurtured here laid the groundwork for a new chapter in the history of art.

1. Book a Ferme San Siméon Painting Experience

Today, Ferme San Siméon is a Relais & Châteaux property, but the now 5-star hotel still retains its historic character and rural charm, albeit with luxurious amenities and services. Staying true to its artistic history, the hotel even offers guests the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of the great Impressionists who once stayed here, by taking a painting class with local artist Laurent Le Roy. I had done some en plein air painting myself in recent years, and having arrived fresh from a visit to Claude Monet’s home at Giverny, I was excited to flex my own artistic muscles where so many Impressionists had done the same.

Artist Le Roy is a charismatic and entertaining mentor, and from our first introduction I knew this would not be a stuffy lesson in watercolour techniques. A huge proponent of ‘en plein air’ painting, (outdoor painting on-site), Le Roy believes there’s something more genuine about a piece of art that is executed in-situ. And he practices what he preaches, with Honfleur’s Vieux Bassin and its boats being some of his favourite subjects.

For my subject I chose one of the buildings on the property, so Laurent and I set ourselves up at a table under the apple trees on the front lawn, and in between conversation, observation and instruction, two hours flew by as I followed Le Roy’s advice and tried to ‘see’ colours, shapes and structures differently.

As the sunlight and shadows moved across the grounds, I began to appreciate the skill and speed required to try to capture that light before it changed or disappeared, something the Impressionists do so masterfully. And because we happened to be visiting Ferme San Siméon during the 150th anniversary of Impressionism, the hotel had installed reproductions of paintings that had been created right here, so I could see examples of their artwork all around the property.

Two hours was not enough for me to complete my painting, (amateur that I am), but enough to appreciate why so many artists continue to come to Honfleur to this day. And the opportunity to spend time at this beautiful property was a definite bonus.

2. Visit the Eugéne Boudin Museum

For visitors who may not want to paint themselves, but who would like to see more Impressionist works of art, the Eugène Boudin museum in Honfleur is a must. It is here you will find collections of works by Boudin, and other influential Impressionists who visited or relocated to Honfleur to paint the town and its environs.

It is interesting to see some of the same locations in the paintings that Henk and I had seen in Honfleur, and at San Siméon in particular.

Another nice thing is that because the Boudin museum is not too large, it is easy to navigate and browse the collections, (where there is plenty to see beyond just works by Impressionists).

3. Photograph Honfleur

If your art form of choice is photography and you enjoy taking images yourself, you’ll have no problem finding inspiration in Honfleur. The cobblestone streets and their half-timbered houses are photogenic subjects, and if you peek into some of the smaller streets and courtyards, its not hard to discover charming vignettes.

We found that if you ask permission, you are usually welcome to photograph some of the character-filled inns in town as well.

And of course the harbour itself offers all kinds of beautiful photo ops, from the colourful turn-of-the-century carousel to the buildings overlooking the harbour, to the boats moored in the Vieux Bassin.

TIP: Early morning is best for reflections in the harbour, when the water is still, and the light illuminates the buildings facing east.

Things to do in Honfleur if you like Shopping

1. Come Early for the Morning Markets

If you like to shop local markets, plan to visit Honfleur on a Saturday, and come early. You’ll have your choice of markets to browse, including a huge one that is set up in the Vieux Bassin, all around the quay. Here you’ll find typical flea market goods, clothing and more, but there is also a fish market, with fresh catches being sold right off the boats.

Nearby in the square in front of Sainte-Catherine church is the fresh food market, with vendors selling local cheeses, meats and produce. And if you happen to visit Honfleur on a Wednesday, the square hosts a smaller, exclusively organic market with sustainable suppliers of fruits, vegetables, meats and even cosmetics.

TIP: Markets usually run from 8am to 1pm, and can get very busy, especially around the harbour, and during the summer months in particular, so plan accordingly.

2. Browse the Shops and Art Galleries Anytime

If your love of art extends to purchasing and not just admiring the artwork, Honfleur has no shortage of art galleries, artisan shops and antique stores.

Still very much a City of Artists today, Honfleur is full of stores selling unique artisan crafts, contemporary paintings and sculptures. Be sure to check out the area near the Hotel du Dauphin which is known as the art gallery district.

Historic Things to do in Honfleur

If you are someone who likes guided tours, Honfleur’s Tourism office provides options for themed tours from the historic to the quirky (think Halloween haunted tour). But there’s also a self-guided audio tour you can rent out for 5 euros if you want to explore the town on your own. Either way, here are a couple of things you probably will want to include:

1. Visit Saint Catherine’s and Saint Leonard’s Churches

Part of the Parish of Our Lady of the Flowery Coast (how beautiful is that name), the Église Sainte-Catherine is the largest surviving wooden church in France and was constructed by shipbuilders in the 15th century. Which explains why the roof of the central nave resembles the inverted hull of a boat. Using wood as a building material also reflected the fact that this church served the poorer, working-class part of Honfleur.

What is also interesting is that Saint Catherine’s bell tower is completely separate from the main body of the church, a precaution that was taken to ensure that if the tower were struck by lightning and caught fire, the rest of the church wouldn’t go up in flames.

For comparison sake alone, it’s worth checking out Saint Leonard’s church on the ‘richer’ side of town. This one was constructed in stone for its more affluent parishioners, and is a mish-mash of architectural styles, with everything from Gothic to Renaissance details (thanks to reconstruction and add-ons over the centuries).

Perhaps the nicest feature may be its stained glass windows from the 19th century that illustrate the Stations of the Cross.

2. Visit the NEW La Mora Experience/Experiment

History buffs will know that the Viking influence in Normandy is significant, going back to their earliest raiding expeditions here in 790. Later these invaders settled here and became rulers, (something that Henk and I discovered more about when we visited Rouen and the tomb of Rollon, a former Viking who became the first Duke of Normandy). Here in Honfleur, a famous voyage by one of Rollon’s descendants is the focus of a new visitor attraction that opened in 2024 called La Mora.

La Mora is the name of a famous Viking warship that was built by William the Conqueror in 1066 to carry him from Normandy to the shores of England, where he conquered the country and became the first Norman King of England. That story (and William’s flagship) are being brought to life on a spit of land in Honfleur that had been neglected for years, opposite the Vieux Bassin.

It is here on Honfleur’s eastern jetty that visitors can follow William on his voyage to conquer England, with an immersive digital experience that uses visual projections, 3-dimensional walk-through sets and audio storytelling to bring William’s voyage to life. Visitors move through the story via a series of ‘rooms’ and eventually join William on his longship for the voyage across the English Channel.

But the La Mora site at Honfleur is more than an historical attraction and digital immersive experience: it is also part experimental archaeology project. Because a major historical re-construction project is also underway here – the rebuilding of the La Mora flagship. Here, in a giant ship-building ‘warehouse’, modern day students and carpenters are constructing a replica of La Mora from drawings and historical records of its size and features (including visuals of the warships on the 11th century embroidered Bayeux Tapestry which documents the historic voyage.)

The builders are using of-the-period tools that are forged on-site, and working with Normandy oak trees, just like the original shipbuilders did. One company, the Ateliers Desmonts, are experts in green wood construction and are so skilled that they were commissioned to work on the restoration of the nave and choir in Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.

The ship is expected to take 6 years to complete with the goal being to actually sail the replica vessel. But in the meantime, every bit of progress made on it is an educational experience for both the builders and visitors.

TIP: Depending on when you visit, every visitor will see the ship at a different stage of completion. (Henk and I saw it at the point where they are still assembling the long keel of the ship.)

Indulgent Things to do in Honfleur

1. Eat Cake!

A visit to a patisserie is always on my list of must-dos when in France, and there are several places to indulge your sweet tooth in Honfleur. Eric Kayser bakery was a favourite of ours not just for its affordable baguette sandwiches for lunch, but for its tempting selection of cakes, which thankfully they offer as individual servings so I didn’t need to eat an entire cake! French bread AND french pastries? This was a no-brainer.

For an even more civilized experience, there are a handful of Tea Rooms in Honfleur (including one at the Hotel du Dauphin where we stayed) where you can sample local sweets and a wide selection of teas. Or for a bit of England on this side of the Channel, the Ferme San Siméon offers a proper Afternoon Tea with a 3-tiered selection of savoury and sweet treats that they serve either inside by their fireplace indoors or on their outdoor terrace overlooking the water.

2. Have a Drink (or two) at the Vieux Bassin

Finally, no visit to Honfleur is complete without enjoying a drink at one of the many cafes and restaurants fronting the harbour. There is no better view and no more lively spot in town to enjoy a late afternoon glass of rosé or a cold beer, an aperitif before dinner, or even an evening nightcap. And being a grownup, you are the boss of you, so there’s nothing to say you can’t indulge in all three!

Honfleur had us at “Bonjour!”

Art, history, shopping, pastries and a photogenic town on the Normandy coast. It’s hard to come up with a better recipe for a French getaway. Henk and I may have come to Honfleur on the trail of the Impressionists to see a place that had helped foster an artistic movement in the nineteenth century, but it didn’t take long for us to realize why this place is just as popular in the twenty-first century. To quote Monet, in a letter he wrote to his artist friend Frédéric Bazille in 1864, about his stay in Honfleur:

“Every day, I discover even more beautiful things…and I want to paint it all…”

For Henk and I, Honfleur had us at “Hello” and made it very hard to say goodbye.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR VISITING HONFLEUR

PARKING:

Some hotels or guest houses in Honfleur have parking available, but many do not. However, there are a number of parking lots that offer hourly, daily and overnight parking, ranging from 2 euros/hour to 23 euros for 24 hours. Most are within easy walking distance of the Vieux Bassin.

WHERE TO STAY IN HONFLEUR

Henk and I stayed at the Hotel du Dauphin, in the arts district in the centre of town near the Sainte-Catherine church. The hotel is actually made up of a collection of 3 buildings (no elevators) with a central reception and cafe in one of them. Our room was in the spa house and although the space was quite compact, the decor was stylish and fun, we had a view onto a quiet courtyard and the bathroom was a good size. A decent breakfast buffet was offered in the mornings, too.

For a more upscale option, the Ferme San Siméon offers all the luxuries you would expect in a Relais & Châteaux property combined with the charm of a 17th-century Normandy house. The property enjoys the benefits of being within walking distance of the centre of town but in a peaceful setting that provides tranquility and space away from the crowds.

WHERE TO EAT IN HONFLEUR

Les Deux Ponts close to the harbour was our choice for dinner, and it didn’t disappoint. The menu offers a large selection of seafood dishes plus meat options as well, and there are 3 and 4-course prix fixe menus in the 24 – 31 euro range. (including a delectable foie gras). You cannot go wrong with that.

Special thanks to Normandy Tourism and Honfleur’s Tourist Office for hosting us in Honfleur.