I’m not retired enough to qualify as a snowbird. But there are the makings of a snow’chick’ in me, especially if it means flocking together with other girlfriends to go somewhere warm for a few laughs, a few great meals and a little shopping. Normally, this takes place at a cottage here in Ontario at the beginning of September, but last year we decided to take the party a little further south – to Naples, Florida.

I didn’t know what to expect from Florida’s Gulf Coast, as this was my first visit there, and I hate to admit that I had visions of sleepy towns with nothing to do and our only options for dinner being early bird specials at chain restaurants. So I was pleasantly surprised to find that there are some really really good grownup dining options in and around Naples in what’s known as Florida’s Paradise Coast.

Dine on the Deck at Riverwalk Restaurant in Tin City

I believe that when you are going anywhere near the ocean, you should spend some quality time eating near the water. And while the Riverwalk Restaurant in Tin City technically sits on the Gordon River in Naples Bay (part of a series of waterways protected from the open waters of the Gulf(, the ambiance is definitely maritime. In fact, Tin City, which is now a quaint shopping and dining area, was built in the 1940s as a working dock and home to a local clam factory, back in the day when this whole coast was more of a fisherman’s paradise than a tourist’s.

The good news is that if you love fish, the Riverwalk Restaurant honours Tin City’s heritage by serving up fresh in-season fish and local produce as well as regional specialties that include a little ‘Southwest Florida’ heat. I settled on the fish tacos (my new ‘thing’ that I’ve been sampling everywhere I can, including freshwater versions on Manitoulin Island), but there were also plenty of options for vegetarians and non-seafood lovers. Our group was diverse in terms of tastes, and the menu at Riverwalk satisfied everyone.

Of course, the one thing we could all agree on was that this girls’ getaway called for a round of Moscow Mules, served in their traditional copper mugs.

Affordable and casual, the Riverwalk’s waterfront deck has the kind of patio vibe that makes it a perfect place to have lunch, unwind after a day spent shopping, or get wound up for the night ahead – it just depends on what you’re up for.

Mangia! Mangia! at Osteria Tulia

Speaking of nights out – right in the heart of the action on stylish Fifth Street in downtown Naples is Osteria Tulia, a farmhouse-chic Italian restaurant which opened in 2013 and has consistently earned awards and high rankings ever since. So it’s no wonder this restaurant is always hopping, whatever the season or the day of the week. (hint, make a reservation!)

Inside and outside, the atmosphere is buzzing as Chef Vincenzo Betulia’s dishes are delivered by knowledgeable staff who are happy to offer advice and in-depth descriptions of the menu’s best sellers. Like the decor, these selections are ‘upscale peasant’, meaning the recipes are inspired by traditional Italian country fare, but with a sophisticated twist. Our fall fare was hearty and filling, with the menu featuring items like a chicken liver appetizer (one of Chef Vincenzo’s most popular starters), and a heritage pork Osso Buco with risotto milanese (I’m happy to report as the risotto snob that I am, that Tulia’s risotto is a proper risotto!) All pastas are made in-house as well, along with Tulia’s sausages and cheese, and what isn’t made locally is sourced locally.

With its ‘modern rustic’ ambiance underscoring its authentically fresh fare, Osteria Tulia definitely served up a delicious taste of Italy in Florida’s own version of Napoli.

Livin’ Lamoraga Vita

When you think ‘Spanish’ or ‘tapas’, you typically wouldn’t think white leather, blonde wood and electric neon under-lighting but that’s the chic vibe that greets you when you walk into Lamoraga. In fact, there’s nothing ‘expected’ about Lamoraga at all, (especially as I wasn’t expecting anything like this in Naples).

With a philosophy of ‘Amo Compartir’ (Love to Share), Lamoraga is all about food as the way to spark conversation and good times, whether it is the twist they take on contemporary Spanish cuisine, or the small tasting-plates that are meant to be shared like traditional tapas. I have to admit, though, that when I tasted my Meat Croquettes, they were so good I was feeling very selfish when it came to the whole comparator thing!

 

Ditto for the Tomato & Fresh Burrata (the creamy, delicious cheese with sweet tomatoes really was more of a single dish than a sharing one. Really.)

And of course, what better way to celebrate with the girls than some pink bubbly! Definitely worth sharing, and like Lamoraga itself, a special way to treat yourself if you find yourselves in Naples.

Fish and Kitsch at Camellia Street Grill, Everglades City

What would a trip to Florida be without at least dipping our toes into the Everglades? And with Everglades City only an hour or so south of Naples, even a long weekend is enough time to squeeze in an airboat ride and enjoy a little local flavour.

Enter Camellia Street Grill, as funky and Florida-y place as you’ll find, complete with airstream trailer on the grounds, and hand-written menus at the self-serve order counter. This is the kind of place where you want to get in touch with your inner beach babe, put on your flip flops and get into a ‘Margaritaville’ state of mind. (Leave the “Sex and the City’ attitude and attire for a trip to NYC.)

Here you can relax for lunch with a chilled Corona, order up some fried green tomatoes (because it just feels like the right thing to do) and try to spot a few gators from the waterfront patio – or sample some gator off the menu! I went for the fish tacos as part of my fish taco tour yet again, and wasn’t disappointed. As fresh and delicious as they get – and with a side of chunky sweet potato wedges that are a meal all on their own.

Come nighttime, and during high season, this place fills up, especially on weekends when they have live entertainment, making Camellia’s a favourite haunt for locals and visitors alike. So make plans accordingly, and if you are visiting the area in the fall, note that the owners usually close up for 6 weeks from September to mid-October to ‘rest up’ for the next season. (We were there at the end of November, and were able to walk in for lunch.) And if you’d like to see what’s on, you can always check out their Facebook page or call for reservations (+1 239-695-2003), since Camellia’s is so laid-back, they don’t even have a website!

 

Randy’s Key Lime Pie

Apparently, you can’t talk ‘Taste of Florida’ without talking key lime pie, practically the State’s National Dessert! So in order to indulge in a little Floridian decadence, I went to the source at Randy’s Paradise Shrimp restaurant for what promised to be “the best key lime pie in all of Florida and the USA”. Five of us stopped in, picked up a pie to take out, and the instant it thawed, I was the first to dig in.

Did Randy’s Key Lime live up to its claim? It was delicious, but….. I think I’ll have to do a lot more research into key lime pies before I can substantiate that claim. A lot of research. (Luckily for me, it looks like our girls’ getaway may become a biannual event, so I’ll be getting that opportunity!)

And finally, speaking of the ‘Best’…

When it comes to Florida dining, if key lime pie is the dessert of choice, seafood has to be the go-to entrée, so I would be remiss if I didn’t suggest a restaurant for all the avid pescatarians out there. Unfortunately, time ran out before I could try out this next restaurant, but on the advice of an ex-NewYorker foodie who lives in St. Petersburg, the best seafood restaurant in all of Southwest Florida can be found in Naples: that would be the USS Nemo. Best Chefs America seems to agree, since they’ve acknowledged Chef Nicolas Mercier for 3 years running, and they seem to know a thing or two about cuisine. What’s even better? Chef Mercier is Canadian! I guess with all the Canadian snowbirds (and snowchicks like us) flocking to Naples, Quebec-native Chef Mercier wanted to be part of the feeding frenzy that’s happening here.

All of which means, next time I’m in Naples, I’ll have to make a point of finding Nemo! (couldn’t resist!)

TIP: Have a favourite foodie spot in the Naples area that you love? Why not leave your restaurant recommendation in the comments below. We’d love to hear about it!