Monsanto, Portugal is a town built around boulders
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination in Portugal that is sure to enchant you, then look to the tiny town of Monsanto. Perched high above the plains of Beira Alta on a rocky outcrop crowned with enormous grey boulders and a castle originally built by the Templar Knights, Monsanto is a town that seems frozen in time. But what makes this ancient town even more unique is the fact that the buildings in the small village are literally nestled above, below and between huge rocks – in fact, if you saw photos of this town (don’t worry, we’ve got plenty here!), you wouldn’t believe it. And that’s why Henk and I just had to see Monsanto for ourselves.
Monsanto: a town built around boulders
Houses are often squeezed between a rock and a hard place
Knowing that this town would likely be too picturesque for just a short visit, Henk and I planned an overnight stay so that we could take advantage of the time to try and capture the unique beauty of this village, both during the day and after the ‘daytrippers’ left.
Yes, this is actually the door to a house!
One of Monsanto’s village cats
But what we soon discovered after arriving in Monsanto is that this is a town where people actually live, not a sideshow of a place where the only residents are souvenir-sellers who go home after the tourists leave. In fact, tourism doesn’t seem to have ‘ruined’ this village, and the residents who do cater to visitors in the town’s guesthouses and restaurants are welcoming and down-to-earth, even if many of them don’t speak English.
Monsanto’s boulders are even more imposing at night
Stay and enjoy views of Monsanto by night
This authenticity is part of the charm of Monsanto, which was once voted the ‘Most Portuguese Village in Portugal”. Certainly the people Henk and I met while wandering the narrow cobbled laneways were quick to return our “Bom Dia” greeting, and didn’t seem to mind us photographing their precariously-situated homes, pretty flowers, or enviable million dollar views.
Henk and I complimented the owner of this house on her beautiful flowers
Flowers are everywhere in Monsanto’s tiny streets
Pretty vignettes in Monsanto’s cobbled streets
Monsanto’s million-dollar-views are a dime a dozen
Because of its position high up on the rocky outcrop known as “Mons Sanctus”, Monsanto offers incredible vistas just about everywhere you turn, and there are numerous terraces in the village that open up on expansive views of the surrounding countryside.
Monsanto offers spectacular views almost everywhere in-town
Panoramas get better as you climb to the the top of the village of Monsanto
There’s also the Castle of Monsanto at the top of the 758-metre hill that is worth the climb for two reasons: the views are even more fantastic from this higher elevation, and you get to scale its ruined ramparts and walls, climb crazy little stone staircases and explore the remains of the Keep. Most of the castle was destroyed after an accidental munitions explosion in the mid 1800’s, but the views offer photo ops galore and all that exercise means you’ll have earned the dinner and/or port that comes later!
Views are better still from the Castle
The Castle of Monsanto was riginally built by the Knights Templar
Climb stone stairs on the Castle ramparts
Where we ate in Monsanto
Taverna Lusitana is both a B&B and a bar/cafe
When it comes to a drink, there’s no better place to enjoy one than at the family-run Taverna Lusitana, a tiny bar/cafe/restaurant where João and his wife cater to their guests on the kind of patio you’ll only find in Monsanto: one that is built on top of several giant boulders, naturally!
Henk’s view from atop the boulder patio at Taverna Lusitana
Enjoying sundowners at Taverna Lusitana
Henk and I had stopped here earlier in the day for a break while wandering the town, but after seeing the unique patio and its breathtaking view, we returned here after our castle hike and spent the evening nibbling on local cheeses and sausages and enjoying sundowners from what has to be the best table in town. Were the other patio patrons jealous of our picturesque perch on the best boulder-seats in town? Probably. But for us it was one of those memorable moments that was infused with the perfect combination of food, drink, and golden light illuminating a stunning view – making it a memory of Monsanto we’ll keep with us forever.
Sun sets below the boulder town of Monsanto
Where we stayed
Jane and the ladies of Casa Pires Mateus
Casa Pires Mateus Guesthouse
It doesn’t get more authentic than this. Edite (“Edith Piaf” was the mnemonic she gave us for remembering her name) runs this 5-room B&B and is originally from Monsanto. Now a retired professor, Edith returned to Monsanto several years ago and purchased and completely renovated the guesthouse which she and her sister Natividade now run. Both are warm, welcoming and wonderful like the town itself, and even though they don’t speak any English, these women managed to make Henk and I feel like family – which they do with all of their international guests (we met travellers from France and Japan who were staying there during our visit.)
Our [very affordable] ensuite double room was simple, well-appointed and comfortable, and the views from the shared terrace were stellar (as was the breakfast!)
The view from the shared terrace at Casa Pires Mateus
Getting to Monsanto
You’ll probably want to rent a car to get to Monsanto – at least if you want to get there on your own schedule. But gird your loins if you’re not really comfortable with a manual transmission, because In Monsanto the streets are particularly steep and narrow. How steep? Think 30 degrees or more. How narrow? Try just over 6 feet (that was the width of one archway!) So if you’re thinking of renting some bad-ass gigantic SUV, your machismo will be put to the test driving in this town. I happily handed the wheel of our puny Fiat Punto over to Henk, so I could abdicate all responsibility myself – another reason why taking out an Excess Insurance policy is such a great idea! Fortunately, once you’re parked, Monsanto is so small you won’t need to take the wheel again until it’s time to leave.
Monsanto’s out-of-the-way location means that people don’t just ‘stumble onto’ it. Which I have to admit, I’m happy about. It means that the visitors who do come here really want to. I know Henk and I did, and our memories of Monsanto more than lived up to our expectations.
Jane Canapini is a member of the Travel Media Association of Canada and the North American Travel Journalists Association. She established GrownupTravels.com in 2014 to share information and tips based on personal experience so her readers could get the most out of their travels.
I visited Monsanto in September 2019. Amazing place !We stayed 2 nights. We got there by public transportation ( had to take 3 buses, but it was worth it) .I enjoyed beer on “ boulder terrace “ as well.
Doesn’t that terrace have THE best view!!!??? I loved Monsanto so I’m glad you did too, especially after all that effort to get there!
We went to Monsanto last year. WOW!! It was everything I had expected and more. After much searching I was able to find a tour guide out of Lisbon who took us there for the day. Wonderful.
So glad you loved it, too! I hope you got a chance to sit on that ‘boulder terrace’ and enjoy the view, too! Monsanto is one of our favourite memories from Portugal!
This is absolutely delightful – and wonderful photographs. I had never heard of this town but it looks as though they’ve turned the natural environment around to their advantage. I happen to have a boulder rockface in the middle of my living room – but that’s another story. Thank you for this!
Okay, now you have to spill it…a boulder in your own living room? Would love to see a photo of that!
I adore your photos, Jane! I admit to not having known that Monsanto is the name of a Portuguese village! I know it as the Canadian company that produces GMO seeds. But your post has definitely made me want to head to Portugal and find the original Monsanto! Thx for this.
Ha Ha, I had no idea Monsanto was a GMO producer! Certainly this Portuguese Monsanto is the antithesis of that! (And thank you for the comment on the photos – Henk will be thrilled to hear that since he does most of our photography.)
I was really curious to read about Monsanto as I am going to Portugal in December/January, however, as you stated, I’ll need a car. Sadly, no car on this trip! The town looks lovely. I love these types of places where the homes are built into the rocks! Your sunset picture, by the way is gorgeous!
That’s too bad, Janice. But I get it – I don’t always rent cars either, and I know it limits where I go. But there’s plenty to see in more accessible towns in Portugal too. I’m sure you’ll love it!
That first photo with the boulder completely sold me on Monsanto. Definitely will add this gem to the list when I finally get to Portugal.
All it took for me was one photo of a ‘Boulder house’, too, and we were off to Monsanto. Funny how one little thing inspires an entire itinerary or trip!
We are heading to Portugal later in the year and Monsanto is the type of town we love to visit. So pretty with a lot of interesting history attached to it. Thanks for the introduction.
I’m sure you’ll love Monsanto if you visit – and it’s definitely worth staying overnight, just so you don’t have to feel rushed.
Wow, what a quaint little town and amazing views! So much history there…. definitely a stop to make if I ever get to Portugal!
Yes, I would recommend it especially if you want to spend a little time in a small town, not just seeing the bigger and more popular cities.
Monsanto is certainly picturesque. It’s amazing how they’ve built around the rocks. Definitely looks worth going out of the way to see.
I have a special affection for odd structures, and Monsanto’s houses between boulders certainly justified a few extra hours of driving.