There’s something about Québec City that brings out the romantic in all of us. Whether it’s the cobblestoned streets of the Lower Town, or the historic, castle-like architecture of Chateau Frontenac perched high above the picturesque St. Lawrence River, this city has all the ingredients for a perfect grownup getaway in any season.
But add a pretty layer of freshly fallen snow to all of the above, a visit to a nearby frozen waterfall and one of the best views of the city enjoyed over local wine and other goodies, and I challenge anyone not to fall head over heels in love with winter here. We did, and here’s how you can, too.
Visit the photogenic Chateau Frontenac
Even when the temperatures dip to minus 15 on the thermometer, Québec City sparkles brighter than ever. And the city’s poster child in any season has to be the Chateau Frontenac, recognized as the most photographed hotel in the world. With its turreted towers, steeply sloping roofs with their green patina, interior courtyard and historic decor, if this doesn’t look like a castle out of a winter wonderland, I don’t know what does.So whether you stop in for a drink, or just take your mittens off to snap a photo, the Chateau is a must-see on your winter itinerary – and with a deep blue sky on a cold winter day, there’s no better backdrop!
Go tobogganing on Dufferin Terrace
If you think that the Dufferin Terrace (the long promenade adjacent to the Chateau) is just for strolling in summer, don’t miss one of its features that you can only enjoy in winter: the toboggan slide, built in 1884 and still in use today. With speeds that can reach 70 kilometres per hour, sliding down this slippery slope is great fun for kids and adults alike, so get your $3 ticket, haul your wooden toboggan up the ramp, and enjoy the view from the top as much as the ride to the bottom! The fact that this slide is as popular now as it was 132 years ago is more proof that this city doesn’t just tolerate winter, it embraces it.
Stroll the Petit Champlain Quarter
Any visit to Québec City has to include a stroll through Le Petit Champlain, a series of narrow streets below the Chateau that are paved with cobblestones and filled with boutiques, historic architecture and in some cases, 4-story tromp l’ceil murals on the sides of some of the buildings.
But in winter, this area of the city is particularly photogenic with shoppes pulling out all the stops to dress up their stores with lush evergreens and in some cases, quirky or unusual decor.
To get to the Petit Champlain area, take the staircase down from in front of the Chateau, or ride the original 1879 Funicular if you want to go old school. Or do both like we did, climbing down and riding back up – either way you’ll get a unique perspective on this part of the city.
Wander Québec City by night
It isn’t just the Petit Champlain area that gets all dressed up for winter. The rest of the city keeps its winter finest on as well, sometimes with garlands and bows, and sometimes just with a blanket of fresh snow on its stone arches and window sills. Nighttime is even more magical both inside and outside the walled city, so bundle up and walk around to experience a wintery Québec City after dark.
Fall for Montmorency Falls
Just 10 minutes outside Québec City lies one of its most popular nearby attractions: Montmorency Falls, a 275-foot high cascade at the mouth of the Montmorency River, and just as popular in the winter as in the summer months. Winter transforms this spectacular waterfall into a frozen cascade of ice where even in the most frigid of temperatures, rushing water continues to spill over its cliff, and clouds of freezing mist collect at the bottom in a giant mount of snow and ice known as the Pain de sucre (sugar loaf).
Some years the Sugar Loaf grows to be 60 or 70 feet high, but this year the winter had been so mild, it was more of a ‘cupcake’ than a full loaf, but we could still get up close to it by following a path that runs around the edge of the frozen river mouth. Being at the bottom of the falls also gave us some great views of the impressive staircase that takes summer visitors down for a closer look.
Admission to Montmorency Park also includes a ride up the cable car to the top of the falls, where you can walk across a suspension bridge that extends right over the top of the falls. I’d highly recommend riding up not only for the fun of taking a cablecar but also because the views are spectacular from both it and the bridge.
We happened to be visiting on the weekend of Valentine’s Day. and our ride in the cable car gave us a view over these footprints in the snow, further proof that we weren’t the only ones falling in love here.
Watch the frozen St. Lawrence float by on Île d’Orleans
Across the river from Montmorency Falls is one of the Québec City area’s best kept secrets (in winter, at least!): the picturesque Île d’Orleans. Known as the ‘Garden of Québec’, by summer the island beckons with its pretty collection of farms, vineyards and orchards, whose rolling hills and valleys spill down to the St. Lawrence River’s edge. But in winter, the island is beautiful in another way, with snow blanketing the fields and smoke puffing out of the farmhouses’ red roofs and stone chimneys.
At the extreme western tip of the island lies the village of Sainte-Pétronille, and a hidden gem of a restaurant that also offers one of the best panoramas of the river and the Québec City skyline – the Auberge la Goéliche.
The perfect place to view the sunset, the Auberge is also a great option if you want to taste the best of what the island’s farms have to offer, with a menu comprised of locally-made products, including wine. It was late afternoon when we drove here, so we indulged in a sampling of the local charcuterie and cheese, while watching massive chunks of ice float past on the near-frozen St. Lawrence.
As the sun began to set, we reluctantly left our table, but found ourselves staying outside a few moments longer in order to capture these gorgeous wintery images before heading back across the bridge to Québec City.
Having visited Québec City a few times now, we can definitely attest to the fact that this area is beautiful no matter which season you visit. But if you are looking for a place for a grownup getaway in Canada’s coldest months, there’s no better place than Québec City for #RomancingWinter.
TIP: Of course we can’t forget about Québec City’s world-famous Winter Carnival, (which deserves an entire post of its own). But here’s a tip: with your purchase of the carnival’s entry pass (effigy) also comes with a Passport/discount booklet that includes great deals like a free Funicular ride, and free entrance to Montmorency Falls. We took advantage of both of these during our own visit.
Special thanks to City of Québec Tourism and the Carnaval de Québec for hosting my stay and providing the opportunity for me to explore some of the region.
Very much enjoyed the post and especially the photos, which brought to mind lots of memories from the many winters of my youth in my hometown, Quebec City. Of course, there are additional reasons to love winter in Quebec City, such as the Winter Carnival and the International Pee Wee tournament to name but two. Thanks for a great post!
Love the picture of the hearts in the snow. I’ll assume that based on the angle of your picture that you actually took the toboggan ride? I love Quebec City. You showed so many great parts that visitors would love. And visiting Montmorency Falls always seems to be a “must see” when visiting Quebec.
Thanks, Janice. And yes, we absolutely took that toboggan ride – it was great fun to go ‘old school’ with a wooden toboggan like we had when we were kids! Every time I go to Quebec City, I find something new to love.
I’ve long wanted to visit Quebec City, thinking that it’s our little slice of continental Europe in North America. Your photos proved me so right! What delectable atmosphere. I’m so not a winter person, but I can make an exception here.
I’m not quite sure if you have really convinced me to “fall in love with winter in Québec City” – I really dislike the cold and moved from Germany to Australia for exactly this reason. But your photos certainly look lovely! Maybe a city tour in a heated taxi would be a compromise…
The falls looks amazing, I’ll have to get a closer look next time we’re there!
They really were amazing to see up close – from the bridge that literally goes over the top, to the bottom where we could climb on top of the big snow banks. And the views from the top out over the river and back to the city were beautiful.